Get the pasta water on first. Fill a large pot with water, bring it to a rolling boil over high heat, and salt it generously—it should taste like the sea. When the water is bubbling furiously, drop in the spaghetti and cook according to the packet instructions until al dente, about 8-10 minutes. Reserve a mugful of pasta water before draining.

Start the soffritto. While the pasta boils, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it turns translucent and smells sweet, not burnt. The edges should just begin to catch a pale gold colour.

Add the garlic and mince. Tip in the minced garlic and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant, then add the beef mince. Break it up with a wooden spoon and let it brown without stirring too often—you want deep caramelisation, not grey meat. After 5-6 minutes, the mince should be sizzling and releasing a rich, nutty aroma, with browned bits sticking to the pan.

Stir in the tomato purée. Push the mince to one side, drop the tomato purée into the empty space, and cook it for 1 minute, stirring constantly. It will darken from bright red to a deep brick colour and smell intensely concentrated. Then mix it through the meat.

Build the sauce. Pour in the tinned chopped tomatoes, then fill the empty tin halfway with water and add that too. Sprinkle in the dried oregano, dried basil, sugar, and crumbled stock cube. Stir well, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.

Simmer until thick and glossy. Bring the sauce to a gentle bubble, then reduce the heat to low. Let it simmer uncovered for 15-20 minutes, stirring every few minutes. The sauce will transform from watery and bright to thick, dark red, and glossy, with oil pooling slightly on the surface. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Marry the pasta and sauce. Drain the spaghetti (reserving that pasta water!) and tip it directly into the frying pan with the sauce. Toss everything together using tongs for 1-2 minutes over low heat. If the sauce seems tight, add a splash of reserved pasta water to loosen it until it clings to each strand.

Finish and serve. Remove the pan from the heat, stir through the grated Parmesan and fresh basil leaves, and serve immediately with extra Parmesan on the side.